Today I glued in the side stringers and then the chine logs on the Star 45x.
I'm very fortunate to have a quality table saw (Powermatic) and an extremely nice blade (Woodworker II from Forest) and can mill my own 1/8" stringer stock. Comes out great.
The side stringer glued in very easily. I only had to shape the bow ends a touch so they would meet the bow frame. Glued them in with Titebond III which is waterproof.
For the chine logs I wanted to have a stronger bond so I mixed up a small batch of epoxy for them. The chine logs are 1/4" x 1/4" and even though made of vertical grain kiln dried cedar they still have to be bent quite a bit at the bow. They are very tricky to clamp down using clothes pins or hobby clamps. So I used my method for clamping that I also use for planking.
Along the sides of my strongback I nail in large thumbtacks even with each frame. Then I string rubber bands across the hull to the other side. Depending on the rubber bands you use you may have to loop two together which is what I did. You may also have to use several rubber bands to keep a tough area down.
In the pictures below you can see the bow section where I had to use many rubber bands. They are able to put a large amount of pressure on any area if you use enough, but at the same time it's distributed across the frame so it doesn't warp the wood. It's actually really slick!
For this clamping job I only needed to use the rubber bands in a few areas. When I do the planking they will be used over much more of the hull.
My biggest piece of advice to you in this topic is to make your strongback WIDE. Mine is 12" wide and works perfectly for the Star's 11" beam.
Guests coming tomorrow so won't be back to it until later this week. Next job is to install the half-frames and bottom stringers. Finally then the tricky bit of installing the sheer rails.
Peace!
I'm very fortunate to have a quality table saw (Powermatic) and an extremely nice blade (Woodworker II from Forest) and can mill my own 1/8" stringer stock. Comes out great.
The side stringer glued in very easily. I only had to shape the bow ends a touch so they would meet the bow frame. Glued them in with Titebond III which is waterproof.
For the chine logs I wanted to have a stronger bond so I mixed up a small batch of epoxy for them. The chine logs are 1/4" x 1/4" and even though made of vertical grain kiln dried cedar they still have to be bent quite a bit at the bow. They are very tricky to clamp down using clothes pins or hobby clamps. So I used my method for clamping that I also use for planking.
Along the sides of my strongback I nail in large thumbtacks even with each frame. Then I string rubber bands across the hull to the other side. Depending on the rubber bands you use you may have to loop two together which is what I did. You may also have to use several rubber bands to keep a tough area down.
In the pictures below you can see the bow section where I had to use many rubber bands. They are able to put a large amount of pressure on any area if you use enough, but at the same time it's distributed across the frame so it doesn't warp the wood. It's actually really slick!
For this clamping job I only needed to use the rubber bands in a few areas. When I do the planking they will be used over much more of the hull.
My biggest piece of advice to you in this topic is to make your strongback WIDE. Mine is 12" wide and works perfectly for the Star's 11" beam.
Guests coming tomorrow so won't be back to it until later this week. Next job is to install the half-frames and bottom stringers. Finally then the tricky bit of installing the sheer rails.
Peace!
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