Today I milled up some vertical grain cedar into planks 3/16" thick by 1/4" wide. I certainly could have gone wider to make my job easier and take less time, but I did 1/4" wide on the first Star 45 and it looks great. It looks "scale" for you model builders out there. Wider would look silly, and if you go too wide then you'll end up with large gaps between the planks. Narrower looks best and is best for fairing the hull when all the planks are installed. That said, going narrower will take a lot longer.
The last time I used Titebond III waterproof glue and only applied it to the edges of the planks and then to the tops of the frames. Today, at least for the first two planks, I used epoxy instead. And I may just continue using it and clear coating the edges and what will be the inside of the plank. My reasoning is that it will accomplish a few things. First it will clear coat the inside of the hull right now and save me a step later. The last time I clear coated the hull it was a godawful mess and looked sloppy afterwards. I could use thinned epoxy instead but risk having microscopic holes that could let in some moisture. However, if I do this, I run the risk of having some pretty serious runs on the inside of the hull and that would look awful too. Titebond III certainly is easier. Hmm.... decisions...
You can see the first two planks epoxied on in the pictures below. Just had to eyeball them to make sure they're straight.
Anyway, I'll just have to make some decisions tomorrow when I add the next two planks. My guess is that I'll just go with Titebond III so I can do more planks at once and then figure out a better way to clear coat the inside later. Star 45x rc sailboat, wooden model sailboat, cedar bottom sailboat, wooden sailboat frames, model sailboat, rc sailboat.
Fair seas!!
The last time I used Titebond III waterproof glue and only applied it to the edges of the planks and then to the tops of the frames. Today, at least for the first two planks, I used epoxy instead. And I may just continue using it and clear coating the edges and what will be the inside of the plank. My reasoning is that it will accomplish a few things. First it will clear coat the inside of the hull right now and save me a step later. The last time I clear coated the hull it was a godawful mess and looked sloppy afterwards. I could use thinned epoxy instead but risk having microscopic holes that could let in some moisture. However, if I do this, I run the risk of having some pretty serious runs on the inside of the hull and that would look awful too. Titebond III certainly is easier. Hmm.... decisions...
You can see the first two planks epoxied on in the pictures below. Just had to eyeball them to make sure they're straight.
Anyway, I'll just have to make some decisions tomorrow when I add the next two planks. My guess is that I'll just go with Titebond III so I can do more planks at once and then figure out a better way to clear coat the inside later. Star 45x rc sailboat, wooden model sailboat, cedar bottom sailboat, wooden sailboat frames, model sailboat, rc sailboat.
Fair seas!!
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